Vivienne Westwood, who turns 80 today, is truly a designer. It’s a fact, not just a pretty twisting phrase. Riccardo Tisci invited her to collaborate at Burberry in 2018, and back in 1995 she created a vulgar bag at the invitation of Louis Vuitton, who was then celebrating the 100th anniversary of his monogram with the logo. In photographs of her first lines from the 1990s, such as Jean Paul Gaultier, Jean Paul Goude, John Galliano and Azzedine Alaïa.
Westwood helped give birth to Punk in the 1970s, and in the 1990s she was deep in the study of historical clothing. She was so enchanted in the 18th century that her models were often shaped a la française with painted white faces and beauties (mouches), not to mention inflating the bosom.
The designer’s birthday offers the perfect opportunity to stage a mini Westwoodpalooze. For the occasion, we digitized five archival collections from the 1990s, starting with Anglomania, from the fall of 1993, a show in which Naomi Campbell made a mess seen around the world. The Café Society (spring 1994) is like a walk through a museum; the models were able to step out of the images of Chardin, Ingres, and Winterhalter. At Liberty (Fall 1994) was Westwood’s own collection of bumps and bumps. The Vive la Cocotte collection (autumn 1995) had its pop-cultural moment in 2000 when Lil ‘Kim wore a “Queen of Sheba” dress at an album release party. The Storm in the Cup 1996 fall show was more moderate; Jerry Hall opened in a tailor-made cut, and closed Laetitia Casta as a bride in a white fur hat and a dress that showed off her garters – the perfect look for a joke.